Friday, February 17, 2017

Make Your Own Bias Tapes: Part 1

Make Your Own Bias Tapes: Part 1-What are bias tapes, how to make and attach bias tapes?

I am not sure how many of you are familiar with the term "bias tape" or "bias binding". But one thing I am sure, check your wardrobe and you will definitely find something with a bias tape.


Since, some of my future projects/tutorials involve the use of bias tapes, I think it is good time to get to know about them. This tutorial will introduce you to what is bias tape, how to make and attach a bias tape.

Below are some of the examples where bias tapes have been used. Bias tape comes handy when finishing off the raw edges at the neckline, arm hole, hem, edges of the quilts etc. Besides, bias tapes are also used for piping and other decorative purpose. One specialty of these tapes are that they will nicely snug around curved edges, which make it useful on arm holes or neck lines.




What is a bias tape?
Bias tape is a long and continuous strip of fabric, cut along the "bias". The width of the bias tapes will range from 1/2" to 3" depending on where they are used.  Next, we will see what does "bias" mean.
  
To explain this we need to look at a fabric you bought from a store. If you buy 1/2 yard of a fabric, you will see that two opposite edges are cut edges and other two opposite edges are self-finished edges, known as selvage (US English) or selvedge (British English). The selvage prevents the fabric from fraying and unraveling. The bias/ bias line is a diagonal line in the middle of  the selvage and the cut edge of the fabric. It make 45 degree angles with the cut edge and the selvage.




You can purchase bias tapes in variety of widths from fabric shops. They are available as single and double fold tapes. Double fold bias tapes are used to finish off the raw edges. where as, single fold tapes are more of decorative purpose. This tutorial focuses only on double fold bias tapes. To make a bias tape you can use a bias tape maker. But this tutorial uses only scissors, measuring tape, and an iron.
Bias tape section at Walmart

How to cut a fabric to make bias tapes?

Fabric strips are cut along the diagonal bias line to make the bias tapes. Fold the cut edge of the fabric over to the selvage and align the cut edge with selvage. Then, cut diagonally along the fold (bias line). So now you have two pieces.


The next step is to cut several strips along/ parallel to the bias line. First, decide how wide your double fold bias tape to be. The width of the strip should be four times of the width of the double fold bias tape.

For eg: If your project requires a 1/2" wide double fold bias tape, the width of the strip should be four times of the double fold bias tape ie. 2 inches ( 1/2"X 4= 2 inches.) 

To make 1/2" wide double fold bias tape, you need to start from 2" wide strip that has  been cut along or parallel to the bias line.

(I will include another tutorial on how to join the strips together later. But for the time being, the tutorials only use short bias tapes)


How to make a 1/2" double fold bias tape ?

To make a 1/2" double fold bias tape, A) place one 2" wide strip that has been cut along or parallel to the bias line. Also, make sure the wrong side of the strip is facing up. B) Make a fold along the middle of the strip, lengthwise, and iron flat. C) Then, open up the fold and D) bring the two raw edges of the strip to the center to make two new folds and nicely iron.  At this point,  you can call your bias tape as a E) single fold bias tape. To make a double fold bias tape F) you need to make one more fold, length wise, along the center of the single fold bias tape and iron.

That's it !! A double fold bias tape is ready!! 

G) If you open up a double fold bias tape, you can see three different folds, separated by 1/2", if you start from a 2" fabric strip. 

Match up the picture labels (A,B,C,D,E,F, and G) with the labels on the description

How to attach a double fold bias tape to a raw edge ?
Next we will see how to attach a double fold bias tape to finish off a raw edge. There are two methods, one method is comparatively easier than the other.

Method 1: The easier method (sandwich method).
I usually use this method, only if the raw edges are straight or not very curved.

Follow these steps. a) Place your fabric with right side facing up. Bring in the double fold bias tape and b) sandwich the raw edge of the fabric in between the folds of the bias tape. c) Pin in place(you may also flip the fabric and make sure the pin has secured the back side of the bias tape). d) Sew along the edge of the bias tape to e) finish off the raw edge.

Match up the picture labels (a,b,c,d, and e) with the labels on the above description
Method 2: The right method
This method is ideal when the raw edges are curved.

Follow the steps to attach a double fold bias tape in this method.
i) unfold the double fold bias tape. You will see three different folds 1, 2, and 3. ii) place the fabric with wrong side up, and align raw edges of both fabric and bias tape. Pin the tape to the fabric along fold # 1 of the bias tape. iii) Sew along fold # 1 of the bias tape. iv) Flip the fabric so that the right side is facing up and fold the bias tape along fold #2 over to the right side of the fabric and pin in place. v) Sew along the edge of the bias tape to vi) finish off the edge.

Match up the picture labels (i,ii,iii,iv,v, and vi) with the labels on the above description

What makes the bias tape snug around a curved edge?
Now you might ask what makes a bias tape so useful in finishing off the raw edges, especially the one with curved edges, like in an arm hole or round neckline? Or what happens if you use a regular strip which is cut parallel to the selvage or parallel to the cut  edge of the fabric (shown as B in the following picture)? Compare this to a strip that has been cut along/ parallel to the bias line (shown as A in the picture). 

Now we look the orientation of fibers/thread (grain) in both strips. In the strip B, the grain is parallel and perpendicular to the raw edge of the strip. Where as in strip A, the orientation of grains are diagonal to the raw edge of the strip. Because of the diagonal orientation, the strip has got some stretch and when you make a bias tape from this strip, it will nicely snug around a curved edge. Unlike the bias tape, the strip cut parallel to selvage (B) will not stretch and it will bulge and make wrinkles.



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